RAFW Day 2: Spring Summer 2010

 In an age of perpetual fashion innovation, it takes a fair shebang of distinctive design, ingenuity and a consensual buzz to rouse the admiration and subsequent approval of the merciless ‘who’s who’ of Australia’s seasoned fashion set.

With the likes of labels Zimmerman, Nicola Finetti, Flannel, Camilla and Marc, Sabatini White, Ellery and Little Joe Woman commanding the Quay’s spotlight for the day’s events, it almost became an exercise in futility attempting to ignore the brewing undercurrent of excitement reserved for the evening’s shows.

Alex Perry’s imminent grand scale spectacle saw Sydney’s eponymous fashion pack buzzing across to Fox Studios to witness the fashion king’s $250,000 ‘Arabian Princess’ themed extravaganza.

Alex Perry

Beneath follow spot lighting, a futuristic styled model procession wooed us along the 130 metre catwalk, draped in tailored jackets, corsets, form-fitting floor-length evening gowns and feathered ultra-high mini hemlines, often swathed in layers of tulle and embellished in intricately jewelled beading and sequins.

Playing with a palette of black, white, cream, lilac and dusty pink, the neutral versus monochromatic colour scheme was exemplary of Perry’s signature sophistication.

Alex Perry

Napoleon Perdis 'Nightime Glamour' for Alex Perry 

Napoleon Perdis’ copious blend of shimmer, shadow and smoky kohl eyes, endeared models with a beguilingly sophisticated ‘more is more’ exoticism of a ‘nightime glamour’ effect, evoking waves of audible awes from the star-studded front row.

Taking a trip to the outskirts of the avant-garde for the other designers’ favoured fashion fixations, we were privy to a common theme resonating through the day: a dichotomy of covered and transparent, soft and rough, modern and classical, and functional and whimsical.

Adopting a self-described ‘globally experimental’ personality to their spring/summer 2010 collection, Camilla and Marc’s typically neutral palette boasted an injection of colour, print and an eclectic array of texture. Colour-blocked bold yellow, orange, peach, pink, aquamarine and cobalt blue were stark contrasts against earthy brown and caramel leathers, and tribal-inspired textured prints, adding interest and detail to the label’s signature tailored jackets, body-con dresses and ultra feminine minis.

Camilla and Marc

Perth label, Flannel also welcomed the return to girlie pastures, with a perennially youthful integration of our favourite nudes - tan, caramel, cream, white, stone, mushroom and silver reigning supreme.

Floaty shirt/dresses, blouses, shorts, leather skirts, pantsuits, halters, loosely fitted pants and lots of belting and fringing were the order of the day on fresh, nude skin tones complemented by high-sheen cheekbones and soft, damply tousled tendrils. 

Zimmermann struck a pure and ordered approach to their new collection, ‘The Vanishing Point’, which evolved as a simple progression of tonal colour, punctuated with elements of black and white. Introducing lines and geometric shapes melded with naturally beautiful elements has created a pleasing contrast to the pieces as they are embraced as one.

Zimmerman

The label has emerged from its once more youthful vibe, to a similarly playful mood of innocence and optimistic polished chic, appealing to the woman who also exudes confidence and favours an adventurous alternative with her clothing.

Classic collared shirts, geometric-print palazzo pants, cage-like layered column dress and wild aqua fringing were prominent icons on the runway, while in the swimwear range, models sported the return of high-waisted 1950s styled floral bikini prints in bubblegum pink, lilac and aqua.

The overall proposed look was chic, accomplished and refined.

Nicola Finetti

It was all about the statement dress for Nicola Finetti. Modernism sculpted to embrace the fundamentals of clean lines, monochromatic tones and luxurious fabrics with inherently Australian undertones.

In pursuit of somewhat of a modern appeal, futuristic-channelling beauties embodying elegant chignon dos and perfectly pared back faces, provided the ultimate basic canvas for fitted, thigh-skimming dresses, chiffon harem shorts, structured boxy jackets, and asymmetrical pieces over ruffles and leggings. Satin alongside subtle embellishments of lace and neck pieces ruled a palette of coral, mushroom, rose, yellow, white, silver and gold tones.

Nicola Finetti

Bold signature silhouettes juxtaposed against unexpected textures and unique hardware detailing gave Ellery its distinctly daring modern vibe, aptly titled The Horreur of Ze Zodiac.

Tailored blazers, one shoulder utility looks, slouchy pants and mini dresses were presented in imported Italian brocade, lace, leather, sheer jersey, silk and crepe luxurious fabrics, celebrating strong and confident femininity with a sexy modern edge.

Ellery’s hand-designed embellishments further added dimension, integrity and character to the decidedly sophisticated collection.

Ellery

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week - Spring Summer 2010

A celebration in innovation


If, according to Sydney’s fashionista industy insiders, Australian Fashion Week is synonymous with pushing beyond standards and expectations, then today’s launch further reiterated this rhetoric, setting a grand-scaled precedent for the week long gala event.

Stationed amongst the quintessentially patriotic backdrop of Circular Quay, the exclusive five day, industry-only event will feature over 100 established and emerging Australian designers showcasing 45 Spring / Summer 2010 collections and complimented by 50 accessory designers in Emerge.

Lisa Ho

During the early stages of its conception, founder and event coordinator, Simon Lock created a vision for Australian Fashion Week, “to establish Australia as a nation that was innovative and able to compete internationally in the sophisticated world of ready to wear fashion.”

Fifteen successive years on, it has evolved into an annual phenomenon, well surpassing Lock’s fervent hopes. The power and passion of the designer visionaries behind the clothes are to be praised for catapulting his foresight to far loftier ranges, placing Australia in a confident and rightfully earned position on the world class fashion event platform as true global competition.

Today’s Lisa Ho, Ginger and Smart, Seventh Wonderland, Bec and Bridge and Camilla parades were amongst the first collections of the week on show, with inspirited New Zealand newcomers, Zambesi and Stolen Girlfriend’s Club making their initial foray into the spotlight.

Designers executed several stand out trends for the new season:

Lisa Ho

Sweet ruffled ensembles were a constant in several collections; effortless transparent chiffon blouses and dresses returning as welcomed staple signature pieces, while silk shorts, billowing harem pants and Grecian-inspired, maxi gowns complemented Lisa Ho’s colour palette of burnished hues of muted mushroom, salmon pink, lilac, moss green and earthy browns catching our romantic eye.

Seventh Wonderland’s swimwear range drew inspiration from symmetrical lines of aesthetic beauty. We saw bikinis, flowing kaftans, tanks and high-waisted shorts varying from the delicate and fluid to hardware-adorned, structured panels and detailing, juxtaposed against digitally printed bright floral and marbled water prints.

Seventh Wonderland

Across the board, faux tans seem to be making way for a more translucent, natural glow. Dewy, nude, high sheen complexions and glossy lips set the scene for ethereal-like bodies fashioned with lashings of strobe cream and shimmery powder, evoking grown-up femininity laced with childlike charm and innocence.

Hair is generally abundant, tousled and unstyled. Volume is either naturally blow dried or injected into tresses through crimping and teasing, while Seventh Wonderland’s models’ barely there complexions offset by Medussa-inspired coiffure swirls, mimicked a slightly more brazen approach to managed styling.

Ginger and Smart provided an arena of ‘future beauty’ transience, presented through a dreamy-inspired, higher state of consciousness. Wearing reflective demeanours, models floated along the runway in a haze of fresh, dewy, sheer skin tones setting an indifferent tone for a colour palette shifting from shades of nude, lilac and pastels to grounded tones of olive, smoke and oily blue. Fabrics in a mélange of frayed, perforated, frilled and knotted textures manifested as effortless accompaniments of fluid trousers, sleeveless blazers, silk tees and bodysuits.

Ginger and Smart

High voltage hues marked Camilla’s highly anticipated Avatar-themed show of flowing kaftans and wrap ensembles. We were captivated by her bold blends of fuchsia, turquoise, burnt orange, metallic gold, lime green, purple and leopard print-inspired prints, enhanced by intricately adorned sequined and feathered head installations. Severe, attention-commanding eyes corresponded with severely risqué neck lines - unflinchingly alluring.

The French refer to this as décolleté – we just call it dead sexy.

Camilla